I’ve also had good success with this one which has flexible welding probes which allow you to reach farther and get to the middle of a battery to make repairs. With my welder in the video above I have to do one row at a time as I build the battery since it doesn’t have the long flexible arms. Both methods work, it just depends on which you prefer.
$200 is on the low end of what is possible. If this is just a proof of concept, finding some used batteries and building a custom friction drive using an old DC motor will likely be a good option. Look up “friction drive ebike” and you’ll find many examples.
Hi Bert! great question, you definitely can “lace in” a hub motor to work with a fat wheel… but that’s a lot of work and given the larger diameter and heavier tire you won’t get the same efficiency and might need a larger, heavier motor. In my opinion, a mid-drive can be a great solution to this and a company called E-Rad offers an excellent modification option specifically for fat bikes. You can choose the motor and battery size you want then specify the bottom bracket size and bam! You’ve got everything you need to do it yourself. Alternatively, you could buy a pre-built fat ebike and go for something affordable like the RadRover.
Hi William! I’m going to do a bit of guesswork here based on what I hear and what I have experienced myself. The first thing you can do is to store and charge the battery inside. This will keep the cells warm and help them deliver greater range than if they were very cold to start. The second thing you can do is use mostly pedal assist to help the bike. Your 65 km ride is no joke… that’s a long way to go. Given your moderate weight of 160 lbs and obvious fitness level from riding a regular bike that far I think you’d enjoy the Surface 604 Element but you will have to pedal to make it all the way… If you tried to use throttle only and the battery is cold I bet you’d only get 10 miles (~16 km). You could order a second battery but that increases your weight and is inconvenient. Keep the battery warm, use pedal assist and if you are really needing a long-range electric fat tire bike then consider the Felt OUTFITTER. I realize it’s much more expensive but you will get MUCH better range and power… though you will not get a throttle mode. This is the most affordable Bosch powered fat e-bike I know of right now… if you want to improve comfort you can add the front suspension fork aftermarket or go for the Haibike XDURO Fatsix which has it pre-installed 🙂
Hello Court, Great information! I survive by involving in technology then no worries understand the concepts and fixing the stuff. I have spent a good deal of my time researching e-bikes in past as well fixed some e bicycles for friends for fun. Hope you could give me a hint on hub motors with lower prices but reliable machines. This is in order to support some low income crowd in Africa. What do you think about the Chinese parts? Any recommendation?
Another thing to note is that the GNG never really had serious issues. Only people that ran custom high-wattage batteries for e bikes caused parts to fail. Now that the GNG is upgraded, I’d be a fool not to try it first, especially since I’m not overvolting the unit. At $336.80 it’s a steal.
The Bionx motor system is a direct drive hub motor assembled in Aurora, Canada, outside of Toronto. Bionx is connected with Magna International, the largest car parts manufacturer in North America, and has its headquarters at Magna’s campus.
1x 48V 1000W Motor. 1x 48V Controller. Thumb throttle. 3 LED lights indicate the battery level. The kit includes a motorized wheel, an electric controller, the speed throttle, the power breaks, and a …
It’s what’s inside your motor that sets it apart from the rest. Quality parts and assembly We’ve written here before about how to choose a motor, the different types of motors, the performance differences between motors, etc. But today I want to show you what makes our motors different from other hub motors. Today, harry is replacing the axle on a customer’s direct-drive motor. The bike was crashed and the…
Hi Lalith, cool name you have! If you are buying a high volume of electric bike motors and batteries, then you could probably buy direct from China and maybe use a website like Alibaba. However, if you need a small or medium number, maybe you could research a company like Clean Republic. I reviewed their affordable Hill Topper kit a while back and thought it was good. If you are buying for Africa, it might be easiest to source parts in Africa or find a wholesaler in China that can ship there vs. going from China to the US and then Africa. I hope this helps you! Be careful if you are planning to buy and then fly with products like this because high capacity Lithium-ion batteries are not usually allowed.
Hi Vincent! In my opinion, there are a whole bunch of great possibilities out there. Luna has high powered stuff and the BBSHD worked great for me when reviewing a Lectric Cycles conversion a year back (using their e-RAD kit). Of course I also like BionX but the stuff is more expensive and proprietary. I’m doing less conversions these days (at least review wise) so I’m a bit behind on the category. For me, the frame makes a big difference and depending on what sort of terrain I’m encountering I’ll lean towards hubs for smooth and zippy feel or mid-drive for better climbing with the understanding that it might wear my drivetrain down, especially without shift sensing. That’s one area where e-RAD and maybe Luna now too, have some good options and accessories.
Hi Court, I have recently purchased a new adult tricycle with the intention of converting it to an electric motor. I am feeling a bit overwhelmed with all the different motor options and configurations available. I want something that will provide me with enough power to get up to speed, and have a long ride time. I have seen YouTube videos where they have linked multiple batteries to get extended ride time. What are your recommendations to get a long ride, with the power for a tricycle and a big rider?
I’ve been building electric bicycles for nearly a decade now. A few years ago I started this website as a place to freely share a lot of the knowledge I’ve accumulated over the years. One of the questions I get asked most often is about recommendations for specific parts.
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Derby Cycles, Kalkhoff and Focus’s parent company, has been hard at work for the past years optimizing the design of their flagship product: the Impulse motor system. Learning from Impulse 1.0, which was introduced in 2012 and is in active service on over 150,000 ebikes around the world, Impulse 2.0 is a next-generation drive that offers better performance, quieter operation and some really bright new ideas to make what was already one of the best drive systems on the market even better. In 2015, Derby Cycles introduced the next iteration of the Impulse system, the Impulse Evo drive.
Thanks for your reply. I am 190 lb. and 6 feet. I want to do mostly road work with some hills. I also want to do gravel trails made from old rail lines and so not really “off road” but not asphalt either. I love speed and acceleration and the ability to go far (even have a second battery on the rack to change out if needed? ). I am not a long time experienced bike guy and don’t like the totally bent over road bike ride. But can go from a somewhat lean forward and exercise ride to maybe putting on “after market” handle bars that allow for a more upright cruise ride as an option with my wife. Does this help? Also looking for an electric recumbent for my wife. c
Introduced in the summer of 2014 by the company Sachsen, the large diameter of this kit is to make up for the lack of internal gears that other similar kits use. It provides 250W, and due to being direct drive, it should likely be very quiet. Thanks to ES member Miles (from the UK) for the link.
Shell Eco-Marathon Americas Competition 2014 1st and 2nd Place Winners Both Used an Electric Bike Technologies Hub Motor! The Mater Dei Supermileage Team of Mater Dei High School, in Evansville, Ind., took the top spot in the Prototype category. The team built a vehicle using an electric bike motor from Electric Bike Technologies USA and won the electric plug in class at the 2012 Shell Eco Marathon Americas. They raised the…
Thanks for reaching out, I’ll contact you via email. To answer your question, I’ve got a lot of experience buying from other North American ebike vendors but Luna was created less than a year ago – after I had already moved to Tel Aviv. Most of your ebike parts wouldn’t pass customs here so I simply haven’t had the chance to review your parts. This is definitely not an exhaustive list – it’s simply a list of the parts that I’ve used and found to be of good quality and price. You have good prices, but since I haven’t used your parts yet I can’t really write about their quality. In the future if I’m back stateside then I hope to get a chance to use your parts. Until then I’ve been reading some good things about your stuff on electricbike-blog.com!
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Toll: I’ve actually seen a wide variety of people switching to ebikes for many different reasons. A large group consists of college students and young professionals, especially those living in cities, who use ebikes as an alternative to buying a car or relying on public transportation. The main benefits for this group include being able to commute on their own schedule, not paying for a car, insurance, parking or a yearly bus pass, and being able to beat traffic in crowded cities. I also see a lot of eco-conscious adults in cities and suburbs who use an ebike as a second vehicle, allowing them to leave their car in the garage for many of their ‘around the town’ trips that don’t really require a 3,000lb gas guzzling machine. Lastly, there are many people who would like to get into cycling, but due to their age or previous injuries, haven’t been able to succeed. With an ebike, they can get back on two wheels and have total control over how much they are pedaling and how much the motor is assisting them.
I bought a 2015 GNG mid drive, and the clutch in the crankset freewheel stopped working within a week with barely any riding at all, and I wasn’t even pedaling that hard. Pedaling now does nothing. I emailed GNG, and they told me to disassemble the clutch, and that would fix it. Anyone else have this problem?
Electric Bike scooter twist throttle accelerator with power display, 5Led battery indicator. 1 x 24V 500W Motor Brushed Controller. Motor brushed controller for Electric bicycle & scooter. Qty: 2PCS (…
Hi Jeff! The three companies that come to mind for me are Electric Bike Outfitters out of Denver Colorado, Dillenger out of Australia (but also sell in the USA) and possibly Luna Cycles out of California. I hope this helps point you in the right direction. You can also ask around in the kits section of the EBR Forums here.
A common electric bicycle setup is a 36V (volt) battery and a 15A (amp) controller. Wattage is just voltage multiplied by current, so 36 volts x 15 amps = 540 watts. In this case, we are looking at an ebike of approximately 500 watts. Do the math just like this on any electric bicycle to determine just how much power that specific ebike is capable of delivering.
I am trying to decide if I need a 350 watt hub motor for a bike conversion or would a 500 watt hub motor be better. I weigh almost 230 lbs but live where there are minimal hills. My husband would be doing the conversion with an all inclusive kit. Does a person’s weight have anything to do with what size motor you buy?
RPM = Revolutions per minute. The RPM’s given for a specific hub motor will be the maximum no load operating RPM. Higher RPM translate into more speed and less torque. Lower RPM is less speed and more torque. Conversely a small diameter rim will require a higher RPM motor to achieve the same travel speed as a larger diameter wheel.
The Semcon “smart engine” prototype relies on a decidedly low-tech method of getting the power to the wheel, namely friction, with a rear-facing 150W electric drive attachment secured to the seat tube that helps to spin the rear wheel. Also attached to the seat tube, although this time facing into the front triangle of the frame, is a removable battery pack, which Semcon didn’t specify the range of. According to the company, the electric drive system includes a “small computer” that could foreseeably run anti-theft or tracking applications, and the ‘smart’ engine adjusts its output to match the rider’s pedaling, actively assisting the cyclist at speeds between 7 and 25 kmh. Semcon says the device weighs in at just a bit more than a kilogram (1102g), but doesn’t state specifically whether or not that includes the weight of the battery.
It is always a good idea to stock up on fresh replacement batteries for your electric bike or scooter. You can find batteries, tubes, tires and a series of other generic parts standard for any bike or scooter at NYCeWheels.
Hi Miran! The Pulsar 250 watt hub motor sounds decent, for your short commute it could work fine and in my opinion front mounted hub motors are alright for basic city riding. They can change the steering dynamic and handling a bit but with a small motor like the one you shared I don’t think it would be a big deal. I really like the Bafang mid-drive but that will be very fast, powerful and possibly illegal where you live. Also, it might be difficult to install compared to the front kit. Here is one I reviewed that might be similar to your Pulsar: https://electricbikereview.com/clean-republic/hill-topper/
The Panasonic mid-drive motor is a remarkable bit of engineering. The basic motor design has stayed the same since the early 90s, when Yamaha and Panasonic began building drive systems for pedal assist electric bicycles. What has changed dramatically is the battery technology, which has allowed the Panasonic drive, which since the beginning was extremely reliable, to get better and better, offering riders more power and better range per charge. Today Panasonic remains a top-tier electric bicycle drive manufacturer being spec’d on a wide range of bikes from companies such as Kalkhoff, Focus, Raleigh, KTM, Helkama, and BH Easy Emotion.